You've all probably heard the term terroir used before. It's that French word that doesn't completely translate into English but takes in account how nature (and man to much a lesser degree) infuses a wine with a sense of place. Anyway, I think there must be a terroir-like reference for a restaurant. To me it's not only great food, great wine, and appealing atmosphere, but also the chef, wine steward, and wait staff. Add to that another important ingredient, the people you are sharing the meal with. You could also add time of day, occasion, and on and on. To simplify, what makes dining at a particular place make you want to go back again and again. Trattoria Lisina in Driftwood has great terroir.
The restaurant has a wine tie-in for us. Angie and I were attending the Texas Wine Festival in Austin several years ago, and got to meet Damian Mandola. Damian and his nephew, Johnny Carraba, started the successful chain of Italian restaurants, Carraba's. He had recently opened a Texas Hill Country winery near Driftwood. He announced at the wine festival that he would be also opening an Italian restaurant right next to the winery. Mandola Winery (now Duchman) and Trattoria Lisina have become one of our go-to places for out-of-town guests who love wine and food like Angie and I.
A couple weeks ago, I got an e-mail from Trattoria Lisina advertising a cooking class. While I can whip up a good breakfast, my better half is our chef. I thought an evening out built around cooking tips from a great chef would be right up her alley. Well, let's just say we both really enjoyed the evening.
Chef John Lichtenberger entertained and informed us while preparing an outstanding seafood dinner. He emphasized the need for quality ingredients in any recipe. Four folks from the audience got the opportunity to stand in front of the crowd and cook portions of the meal under the chef's direction. We all had the recipes and were able to follow along. After the demonstration phase of each course (Seafood Risotto and Olive-stuffed Swordfish with Salmoriglio Sauce) we got to taste a full menu-sized portion.
When you have food of this caliber, you've got to have wine up to the pairing challenge. We had four from Italy. Starting with the antipasti ( home cured salmon, prosciutto wrapped Tuscan melon, marinated olives and grilled shrimp), we were served Pieropan Soave from the Veneto region in the Northeast. I thought it must be a Sauvignon Blanc, initially with a grassy nose and hint of white peaches. Next, with the risotto, it was a Ceretto Blange Arneis. Hailing from Piedmont (Northwest), many may have not heard of the Arneis grape. The wine is a little spritzy which helps with a slightly lower acidity level. It was a good match with the seafood flavors in the risotto.
In keeping with the learning aspects of the evening, the main course of swordfish arrived with two wines: a white and a red (the only one of the evening). They wanted to demonstrate how red wine can go with fish. In this case, it was the body of the wines (light-medium) that allowed you to switch back and forth while savoring the lovely swordfish. The white took us down the boot to the Campania region (East of Naples). The 2008 Terredora Dipaolo Greco di Tufo introduced us to another Italian (actually originated in Greece) white varietal. I caught a slight honey aroma with some pear. The red was Sicilian, Planeta 2008 Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Sicillia. This red is a blend of Nero d'Avola and Frappato. Nero d'Avola is the most planted red grape in Sicily; the Frappato adds a little floral component to a nose that reminded my of hard cherry candy. Needless to say, I enjoyed both. The rolled, stuffed swordfish was grilled. The Planeta brought out the flavors of the grill. The Greco di Tufo paired more with the Salmoriglio sauce. You wouldn't miss with either choice.
And last, but not least, it seemed as if everyone we met that evening was like us, foodies and wine-ers. We enjoyed the conversation with our dinner mates and the folks at Trattoria Lisina. This is a crowd I could hang out with again.
The entire evening goes into the win column. Well, excluding the traffic on I35, but it was fairly insignificant compared to the culinary enjoyment. We will patiently await the next cooking class. I'm thinking Gnocchi and pancetta...